Quest for the Sign Painter

Brent needed to find the mythical sign painter to make a sign for his new volunteer project. And so, the quest began.

Louise said, "Yes! I know a lovely family, the husband is a carpenter, he will build and paint a sign for you, go to the crystal shop and speak to his wife."

At the Crystal Shop, a woman said, "Oh, a sign? You need to speak to my sister, she will back tomorrow."

The next day, the sister said, "My husband cannot make you a sign, he is just a carpenter. Go to the Shiva Art Gallery, there you will find a sign painter."

But the Shiva Art Gallery did not exist, even though Brent went to the building that had "Shiva Art Gallery" literally painted on the roof. There was only a pregnant woman who did not speak English, and Brent's Hindi was still horrendous.

A shopkeeper said, "A signpainter, yes, he lives near the temple. Go to the bottom of the road near the temple, you will find him there." So Brent went to the bottom of the road near the temple, but there was only an Indian man selling bongs and necklaces. The Indian man was very friendly, and asked, "Would you like some weed? Or perhaps a bong, or a pipe?" Brent replied, "No thank you, I am looking for a sign painter." So the kind weed peddler took Brent to the sign painter. At last, Brent's quest had come to an end.

"Sir," asked Brent, "Can you make me a sign?"

The sign painter replied, "Certainly, I can paint you a beautiful sign!" Brent sighed with relief. The sign painter continued, "But first, you must bring me a piece of metal for the sign. Go and find the metal smith, he lives in the valley..."

Charan

Dang, I spoke too soon! Poo fountain turned back on last night with full force. I'm sure no one wants to hear about my bodily functions, but writing about challenges helps me move past unpleasantness and get on with the day.

Had to cancel volunteer work today, again. Crawled up steps to chow down on some bananas. Feeling a bit better now.

My plan was to write about how I'm teaching english and math to children in an impoverished village, as well as co-pioneering a program to clean up trash and educate folks about the health dangers of burning plastics. But as often happens, the moment I think I'm saving the world, the Powers That Be knock me on my arse to remind me of my human frailty. It's quite humbling to feel so immobile, curled up in a feverish ball, waiting for the next intestinal rumble.

On the bright side, my body knows what's best for me. If I'm expelling something, it never belonged there in the first place, so in a sense it feels purifying.

Also a good reminder of what people in the slum village have to deal with; I have the luxury of a warm sleeping bag and pepto-bismol, they have to deal with living in the dirt with all manner of diseases, cooties, and fecal matter. When I first went down to teach (it's in the valley, an hour walk down the mountain), I nearly cried when I saw the living conditions. Not to far off from hell, if such a place exists. To add insult to injury, the only place they could set up their camp is in a dried up river valley, so when it rains the "floor" turns to mud. And yet the children (the ones that aren't bed ridden with Polio, TB, or infections) are amazingly lively, curious and respectful. Nearly every class ends with at least a dozen of them piled on top of me, calling out "Sir! Sir! Sir!" Asking endless questions, waiting to show me their latest drawing or math problem.

We're discouraged from bringing cameras to the village, so I'm attaching a photo from the charity's website: http://www.tong-len.org/

...Having trouble uploading photos, will try again later.

Focusing on what can be changed

Once again feeling healthy as a horse. Eating like a cow, digesting food properly even without multiple stomaches. Energy back to full-on cheeky monkey levels.

Tutoring Tibetan monks. My students are brilliant and inquisitive, incredibly fast learners. If only I could pick up Hindi so easily! English lessons entail a great deal of hand-waving, drawing pictures, laughing about "dogs with horns" and other wacky forms of communication (miscommunication?). Beneath all the brevity lies the sad reality that Lobsang Damchoe wants to learn to say, "I am scared for my family in Tibet."

On that note, a "Free Tibet" would be a dream come true, but China has no motivation to make this a reality. Even if a western nation demands China lessen their grip on Tibet, such a demand would be laughable! The Chinese Government would say, "Who are YOU to tell us about giving people their land?" America, for example, has a sterling reputation for snatching land away from Native peoples, followed by systematic assimilation of their culture. Even now, we pump oil through Alaskan native land (with the occasional nasty spill), wreaking havok on delicate ecosystems to satisfy our addiction to fossil fuels.

I'm ashamed for the actions of certain American leaders, but I still love my country. I love my freedoms, video games, orange sherbet, a comfy couch, water that doesn't give me diarrhea and a decent sized TV. I appreciate that I can openly complain about my government, marry whomever*, and live in relative luxury. I'm reasonably patriotic, and I hope I present myself in a manner that portrays Americans as responsible folk.

Forgive the tangent.

Tibet: I can't free their people, but I can help a few who have escaped to India. Learning to speak English goes a long way towards finding jobs and understanding current events. I'm focusing on things I CAN change, because it's just too painful to pull my hair out over the injustices that can't be changed. More in the next entry.

*some exceptions apply

Last hope for a nonviolent conflict

Listened to Tenzin Tsundue (widely recognized advocate for Tibetan independence) speak on Tibetan struggle. Talked about being arrested for visiting his homeland, jailed for six months by Chinese authorities. Severely beaten, like most Tibetan refugees who try returning home.

Interesting how Tibetan youths view struggle for independence. While they have tremendous respect for H.H. the Dalai Lama, they don't necessarily agree with his approach (the Dalai Lama no longer asks for Tibetan independence - he would settle for Tibet to be a part of China, but with some autonomy). Much of the younger generation will settle for nothing less than complete independence, and they don't necessarily follow complete non-violence. The Western world views Tibetans as a peaceful, non-violent, spiritual people. This is mostly true, though the occassional Tibetan uprising has been known to result in a few dead Chinese soldiers (though mostly dead Tibetans).

Tenzin explains, "When Chinese soldiers are on your doorstep, destroying your monastaries, raping your wives, imprisoning your people, you don't think in terms of violence or non-violence. You just act. This is completely natural."

While he sympathizes with the violent actions of his peers, Tenzin himself still believes in a non-violent approach. "This is the last hope for a nonviolent conflict. If the Tibetans are not successful, there will be no more nonviolent struggles, because people will say, 'Look at the Dalai Lama, he tried a nonviolent approach, but he failed.'"

Amazing Diet Plan!! Lose Weight Fast!!

Hi, I'm here to tell you about my new diet plan! Tired of all those "Quick Fix" ads you see on TV? Frustrated with magic "Diet Pills" that just never work? Well have I got a solution for you!

Here's how it works:

Travel to altitude of 6,000 feet where everything feels like more work. Eat a healthy meal for breakfast, and one of my patented, delicious, parasite infested banana-lassi shakes!*

Hike to picturesque mountain waterfall. Spend the night expelling half-digested breakfast on mountainside. Travel with German friends who are kind enough to build fire for you when fever sets in. Upon descending mountain, haul luggage down endless staircase to depths of valley.

Travel to Indian slums in dried up riverbed. Perform 30 repetitions of biceps curl with two children hanging off each arm. Walk back to town from slums. Takes roughly four hours, all uphill, if you miss shortcuts and take a few wrong turns along the way. Avoid buses barrelling down winding mountain pass with headlights off.

Sleeping with eyes open, scanning walls for spiders, will burn a few additional calories.

Try my plan for two weeks and you'll see results fast!!

*For the record, banana lassis here are delicious and probably safe to drink. It's unclear what made me ill, but pretty much everyone has to deal with some kind of digestive unpleasantness when travelling. It's not all that bad - in fact, my experience camping out while losing food and water out both ends was a welcome personal challenge.

Human Rights Crisis

Photo: Shirt worn by Tibetan victim of Chinese military violence. Brown spots are blood stains.

Visited Tibetan museum to better understand situation here. Impossible, I think, to leave without feeling overwhelming sadness and frustration. Some excerpts:

"The systematic eradication of Tibetan culture and religion saw the destruction of over 6,000 monastaries and temples by the Chinese military. The handful still standing today are used as tourist attractions, army barracks, or public toilets..."

"I participated in a peaceful demonstration with five other nuns from my nunnery. We were immediately arrested and taken to a detention center. I was interrogated for two months. We were hung from the ceiling, cigarettes were stubbed on our bodies, and we were beaten seriously with metal wires. Female prisoners had electric batons inserted in their private parts..."

"Approximately 1.2 million Tibetans died [so far] as a result of Chinese oppresion through executions, torture, hunger, and labor camps. Since 1959, about 100,000 Tibetans fled to neighboring countries. Many die on the way from Chinese attacks or harsh conditions..."

McLeod Ganj (where I live) is in Nothern India, SW of the Tibetan (or Chinese, depends who you ask) border. His Holiness the Dalai Lama fled here in 1959. Tibetans I've met trekked across the Himalayas to get here. Many get frostbite, some lose fingers/toes.

Situation for Tibetans in China is getting worse. Dalai Lama's response remains amazingly tempered: "His Holiness has never condoned violence. He is cautious of his condemnation of Chinese atrocities, never using language of hate or anger... H.H. considers himself a follower of Gandhi."

Last room of the museum has pictures of H.H. (His Holiness) meeting with world leaders and religious figures, including G.W., Pope John Paul and Nelson Mandela. In another photo he recieves Nobel Peace Prize. The systematic eradication of the Tibetan people is an internationally recognized Human Rights disaster, so why does it continue?

The Chinese government is not held accountable for violating international law. Businesses around the world continue to enjoy cheap labor, manufacturing and imports from China. The Olympic Committee Chose Beijing as the site for the 2008 Olympics (not supposed to be hosted by Nation that commits Human Rights violations). Neither UN, nor US, slaps them on the wrist (perhaps because they're a nuclear superpower?).

Suggestions and comments are welcome.

Trek to Triund

Hiked to Triund, roughly 2,800 meters, or 8,400 feet. Four hours to the top. Just a little foothill compared to surrounding peaks. Views are breathtaking. Travelled with six companions: German friends Mario and Martin, plus four dogs we met on the road. Snowflake (generic name for white dog) and Gandhi (refuses food) wandered off, but Cookie Dog (eats the most cookies) and Explorer (generic dog name) faithfully stayed by our side for the entire journey to the top.

Enjoyed cups of chai at mountaintop snack shack. Have no idea how the shop owner can handle the cold, snow, sleet, and lonliness. Must be peaceful, though. Took nap on rock. Thought of Scoops and Crowe, hikers extraordinaire from back home. Wish they were here to share the experience.

Obligatory intestinal distress, slight dehydration (bring more water next time!) and mild sunburn (use more sunblock!) made descent wearying. Still remains among top 10 most exciting days ever.

Monks in da club

"All he does is grab, grab, grab. This man is bad for the Universe."
- Indian shop owner, referring to George W. Bush

Met a group of western volunteers. Seems like a welcoming, fun group. Niraj is moving out, so I'll be taking his room. Much cheaper than my current place, though the occassional large, furry, dinner-plate sized spider has been rumored to drop by during rainy days. Hoping he's just trying to scare the new guy.

Went with new volunteers to Tibetan / Indian dance party. Wasn't sure what to expect. Indian police padded us down at the door. Everything else was just like a club in Boston, except beer cost a quarter, and we were dancing among monks (in civilian clothes). Was not expecting to hear 50 Cent at any point during my time here.

Met Tashi (means "lucky"), a Tibetan student on vacation from school. Wants to become a vet so he can "help animals." Rock on, Tashi. Apparently he thought I was a good dancer because he mimicked me the entire night. Real nice kid, got his email, going to help him with his English.

Dance party ended when drunken brawl erupted, two Tibetans stabbed in knife fight. Very unfortunate. Spoke to many locals, learned that some youths "lose their way," get involved in drugs, alcohol, violence, and frequent use of American cuss words (for the record, I have yet to meet an unfriendly Tibetan). No surprise, as many children travel to India from Tibet without their parents to escape Chinese persecution, find work, etc. Returning home runs the risk of imprisonment: "Many Tibetans return home to visit family... Many are lucky, and only go to jail for a few days. Some go to jail for years."

"God gives, but doesn't share." - Haitian Proverb

...This meant, as public health champion Paul Farmer expains, "God gives us humans everything we need to flourish, but he's not the one who's supposed to divvy up the loot. That charge was laid upon us."

Time here already feels like an adventurer's dream come true. Staying in a room with a view of the Himalayas that costs $6 US dollars a night. Hiked to a Bhuddist mountain retreat, past wiley leaping monkeys that grab pant legs and food if not careful. Took Indian drumming lessons. Ate delicious Tibetan dinner with three companions from Germany and Alaska. Later today, hiking to nearby waterfalls. Tomorrow, trekking to nearby peak.

On morning of day three, already anxious to start volunteering. Should have my assignment by the 6th, probably teaching English. Been reading too much about Paul Farmer, in Mountains Beyond Mountains. Best book ever, a gift from Amy. Tells the story of a man with superhuman passion for providing medical care to poor communities in Haiti (now he's in Africa). Very powerful, entertaining, insightful. Highly recommended reading. Places God in an interesting light (see quote above).

On a related note, was accepted into Johns Hopkins School of Public Health for International Health/Peace Corps program. Feeling more and more passionate about studying there, to learn skills that will enable a greater impact. At the moment I feel somewhat impotent to make the kind of positive impact I want to make. Teaching English is wonderful and useful, but I can't save lives with it. Nor can I redistribute massive inequalities of wealth, but I suppose nobody can do that. Also can't clean up irreversible damage to environment by reckless use of natural gas (Parts of India are especially bad - millions of cars and bad roads, city air is heavy with smog. But at least they don't have SUVs). Guess I have to focus on what I can change, pick one area that I can effect and do my best.

Learning to live with less here. Room has hot water, but not using any. Bringing water filter was wise as it means I don't buy botted water = less waste. Going to move into simpler living quarters. One more weekend of fun adventures, after that hopefully work begins. Pictures of monkeys coming soon.

"May all sentient beings be happy"

View from my porch. Photo doesn't do justice. Rivendell is for the birds.

Woke up at sunrise, did some pushups, ate some fish snacks, went out for my first "run" in McLeod Ganj. Roads are too steep to run down, have to avoid obstacle course of cow poop, garbage, vehicles and sleeping puppies. Going uphill involves 20 steps followed by huffing and puffing. Saw a procession of Tibetans going down mountain pathway, so I followed.

Winding mountain forest path weaved past pine trees, views of snow capped peaks, prayer stones, beggars. Passed a sign reading, "May all sentient beings be happy." Eventually came to what looked to be a monastary up on the mountain, but so many prayer flags, statues, and monks obstructed my view. Decided to save the monastary for another time. Turned lots of prayer wheels (will attach photo next time).

Met two friendly German travellers, Mario and Martin, at Indian restaurant (amazing cheap food) last night. Will join them for my first hike tomorrow morning. Drum lessons later today.

So much to see and experience, too little time to write about it all! These are tiny snippets of an overwhelmingly amazing place.

Arrival in India

Amy checked the weather in Delhi, it said, "Smoky." I figured out what that meant when I got off the plane, phew! The air was like a blast from a weird smelly sauna. Eric Dannerhoj wasn't kidding. Didn't bother me, though, made sense that a place so unfamiliar should also smell and feel different.

Taxi ride to Manju Katilla (Tibetan settlement) was harrowing. No one stays in lanes, ubiquitous trucks don't have rear view mirrors so driver has to honk everytime we pass. The best was driving on the shoulder, the wrong way, to get to some side street. Advice to travellers: Don't hesitate to ask the driver to slow down.

Enough on driving... Manju Katilla felt like a kung fu movie. Clotheslines, thin dirt alleyways between houses stacked upwards like wobbly jenga towers. Mangy (but very cute) dogs everywhere (ruff ruff!), hanging out eating trash. Saw some puppies bathing in a trickle of green water. Cows, too, wandering about. A bit sad at first, but reassuring to know animals are respected and cared for - lots of veg & animal shelter posters.

Wandered around the village, met a nice British Bhuddist named Tammy who explained Bhuddist tapestries - created with a mathematical pattern of sorts, so when you correctly draw Bhudda's face it should looks the same no matter how big you draw it. Neat.

Speaking of meeting nice folk, I'm thankful for the abundance of friendly faces here. Off to dinner, more news soon!